“A dream come true” is how I’ve frequently described my short time on Isle Royale: the nation’s least visited, but most revisited national park. The park’s tagline is no surprise; any hopeful visitor is a 4 hour ferry ride (or seaplane) and tons of proactive planning away. I was one of the lucky ones. Thanks to an eventual Emmy-nominated and award winning episode with PBS Great Lakes Now “Wild Islands & Salty Visitors”, I was able to enjoy this incredible park through the careful planning of a production team (thanks Anna & Rob!) and if that wasn’t enough, we arrived on my 26th birthday — can’t beat it!
Isle Royale is, hands down, the most beautiful park I’ve been to whether local, state or national. In a logging region where you’d be hard pressed to find untouched wilderness the archipelago of Isle Royale rests peacefully in its great lake, sturdy and ancient. This untouched legacy shows up everywhere from the abundance of lichen draped old growth trees, bounties of fresh blueberries along thin trails and wildlife that makes clear this is their world — we’re just visiting it.
The wildlife was as generous as it was proud, allowing us to witness not one, not two but three moose sightings in just three days. Not to brag, but many weeks long backpackers we passed on the trails mentioned they hadn’t yet seen a moose — never doubt the power of a birthday wish! I do wonder if perhaps it wasn’t a granted wish, but a little vanity from the Moose’s, after all, they were always meant to be the star of our episode.
While it may be the least visited national park, the isle hosts a scientific research project of global importance. Since the 1970s, Rolf Peterson, joined seasonally by his wife Candy Peterson, has played an integral role in a unique study on wolf-moose interactions. On Isle Royale wolves are the only predator of the moose, and moose the only food for the wolves creating a dramatic system of interdependence unseen anywhere else. I had the pleasure of spending an afternoon with Rolph and Candy in their long time modest cabin surrounded by an impressive collection of Moose bones.
Having the opportunity to learn about this unique work straight from the moose’s mouth (that’s the saying — right!?) was the highlight of my time. From advancing technologies to intimate knowledge it takes a lifetime to gain the work that goes into creating a sustainable, informative space for all to enjoy was humbling. Even more, the hospitality and warmth I found in the middle of Lake Superior from two strangers emphasized the power of our outdoors to bring people from all walks of life together.
As the future of our National Parks become politically uncertain, it is the stories of folks like Rolph and Candy that deserve to be seen. I could brag endlessly about the relentless beauty of the island, but it is the dedication of people often behind the scenes that make our parks both accessible for our enjoyment and world renowned for their ecological importance. If Isle Royale wasn’t on your must visit list, it should be — and don’t forget to stop by the little cabin in the woods to thank some important people for their invaluable work.
Catch more news at Great Lakes Now:
A Detroiter’s journey to Calumet for CopperDog
Michigan beaches you need to see
Featured images: All photos provided by Ian Solomon
